French Hospitality

My generous hosts in Wiches,
Edmond and Lysiane

The last several days here in France have been like a dream.  The roads have been smooth and mostly free of traffic, the scenery outdoes itself with every bend in the road, the sun has been shining, and the hospitality I've been welcomed with has been far warmer than the sunniest day.  I wasn't allowed to pay for my coffee by a hotel-restaurant owner (and she gave me a plate of cookies too), a nice couple picked up the tab for my two Coca-Colas at the top of the Col du Hantz, and last night in Wiches, a family took me into their home because it looked like it was about to rain.  I stopped to ask them if there was a place to camp and they simply answered, "You can camp at our house."  Well, you can't call it camping when you're invited in for dinner, drinks, a shower, a bed, and breakfast in the morning!  When Edmond opened his garage and I saw all the bicycles leaning against the wall (and the road bike on the trainer), I knew I was in the company of a kindred spirit.  "Thank you." just isn't enough to express the gratitude I feel.

Jean-Marc and Christine

Today was a short (and all downhill) ride into Achenheim (a village just west of Strasbourg).  I'm staying with Jean-Marc and Christine, friends of Claudine (Missoula) and Lucile (Paris).  I've somehow worked my way into a French circle of friends who all have rock climbing (and hospitality) as their common denominator.  Upon arriving, I was served an unbelievable 5 course lunch, complete with champagne!  Then the three of us headed into Strasbourg by car (my first time in a car since I got to Europe).  Jean-Marc and Christine were my tour guides and we saw cathedrals, old hotels, canals, and the European Parliament.  Tonight, they are taking me out for flammekueche.  I'm already salivating.

Time to stop and rest the legs

My legs are seriously tired.  I'll be staying here for two nights to gain some direction and let my legs rest.  Yesterday I rode over two named passes.  (Did I mention how glad I am that I didn't go to the Alps?)  I got worked over pretty good.  I fully understand now why people tour with three chain rings.  Col de la Chipotte and Col du Hantz got me over the Vosges mountains.  The long decent toward Strasbourg from the top of the Col du Hantz was on perfect asphalt and felt like it would go on forever.  I wound it up in the 50x11 several times.  Very exhilarating towing the B.o.b. trailer!

I'm still in France?

The last few days have definitely seen changes in the architecture.  With each new village I come to, the buildings look more and more German.  Christine filled me in on a bit of the history of Alsace and how it has gone back and forth between Germany and France many times, the last time being the occupation during WWII.  In the cathedral of Strasbourg there was even a memorial to the American soldiers that died in the efforts to free Alsace from Germany.

Looking up, in the Strasbourg Cathedral

Today, while walking in Strasbourg, I heard someone speaking English with an American accent for the first time since leaving Paris.  I have not met another American on the entire trip.  Most French ask me if I'm from Great Britain; when I say that I'm from the U.S. they usually reply in a surprised and delighted manner, "Aaaahhhh, américain!"  Needless to say, it's a nice feeling to be so well received.