Hills and Headwinds

NRO kit makes for high-visibility

The "La Loire a Velo" trail was scenic and lovely.  At times, it was a bit bumpy (gravel, mud, cobblestones, etc) and probably best enjoyed on a true touring bike.  A few days ago I decided to opt for the roads and made some good progress on a few arterial regional highways via Blois, Orleans, and Gien.  The weather yesterday was cold and rainy.  My lunch timing was perfect as I walked into a cafe near Sancerre just as a deluge of rain and hail came down!

Riding into Nevers yesterday, I found the library where my first ever CouchSurfing (couchsurfing.org) host works.  Edwige was a gracious and generous host with a lovely apartment!  The very talkative librarian had a work colleague over last night (Stephane) and we ate sausage, cheese, radishes, bread, and tabouli....oh, and homemade chocolate mousse!  Yum!  We had a great discussion and I was amazed at their English skills and vocabulary. Edwige went way above and beyond this morning by going out and buying a couple of pastries for breakfast before I was even awake!  She let me sleep in and have a "fat morning" (as the French expression translates).  After dropping her key off at the library and saying goodbye, I went to a book store to look at maps and gain some direction.  I bought several regional maps to get me to Strasbourg.  I've decided to abandon the plan to continue on the EuroVelo6 route, and start making progress toward Utrecht, Holland where I have a great friend waiting for my arrival.  (There's a chance I'll hop a train once I arrive in Strasbourg.)

"Look" headquarters is in Nevers!

On my way out of Nevers it was cold and almost noon, so I figured I should stop and eat before leaving town.  I walked into a restaurant and asked for help with the menu.  The gentleman sitting at the next table (Vincent) offered to translate and we ended up enjoying our meal together.  We had a great conversation about everything from outdoor recreation to politics.  It's these types of connections that really enrich a trip like this.  The scenery, the food, and the language are great parts of a culture to experience in and of themselves, but people's hearts and minds are what make up the soul of a country.  The exchange that takes place in these meetings is truly priceless as each person takes away a bit of the other.  (...and thanks for lunch, Vincent!)

Cool, but wonderful weather today

Once east of Nevers, I found hills.  These are the first real hills of the trip and my knee is not too keen on them.  The lowest gear on my bike saw the most chain time today as I ratcheted up hills, coasted to the bottom, then ratcheted up the next one.  The highway was too crowded with truck traffic heading toward Chateau Chinon, so I took a side road that leads northeasterly, more in the direction of Strasbourg.  The scenery today was marvelous as I pedaled my way across Burgundy.

"Baa-ram-ewe. Baa-ram-ewe."

Rainy weather headed toward Nevers

I'm now settled in a Dutch owned campground in Chaumot (just west of the beautifully quaint village of Corbigny).  Apparently the news is out that this place is Dutch owned....I just had a fellow camper begin speaking to me in Dutch.  A reply of, "What language are you speaking?" brought a hearty laughter out of him.